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Globally, there is a huge demand for (some say dependency on) cacao beans, which thrive in tropical climates near the equator. (“Cacao beans” refers to the raw seeds from the fruit of the cacao tree, while “cocoa beans” is how they are referred to after having been roasted.) According to the2019 Global Market Reportfrom the International Institute for Sustainable Development, the largest exports of cacao beans in 2016 came from Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana and Nigeria, generating a combined total of $7.2 billion. Surprisingly or not, the United States imported $1.3 billion worth of cacao, making it the third-largest importer behind the Netherlands and Germany.
Because cacao is ahand cropthat relies on minimal pieces of agricultural machinery for cultivation, many concerns have ben raised around the cacao industry over the years, from farming practices to issues relating to poverty, workers' rights, gender inequality, child labor and climate change.
So, what exactly is ethical chocolate, and what can we do as consumers to stay informed and make the moral choice? We spoke with a few experts for their insights.
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What is ethical chocolate?
While there is no official definition, ethical chocolate refers to how the ingredients for chocolate are sourced and produced. “Chocolate has a complex supply chain, and cacao can only grow near the equator,” says Brian Chau, a food scientist, food systems analyst and founder ofChau Time.
You may be surprised to learn that 70% of the 5 million cacao-farming households around the globe receive less than$2 per dayfor their labor. Chau adds, “Chocolate trade is set up in mostly former colonial possessions; issues around oppression come into question.”
Ethical chocolate, then, is meant to address the socioeconomic and environmental issues throughout the supply chain, including how chocolate is produced under ethical standards and where cacao farmers and laborers receive fair and sustainable wages. The term also extends to how the land is treated, as growing cacao trees could mean replacing rainforests which can cause deforestation.
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How do I know if the chocolate I buy is ethical?
You may not be able to differentiate between chocolate made with or without ethically produced cacao beans. “The basic composition of raw materials will be the same,” says Michael Laiskonis, a chef at the Institute of Culinary Education and operator of ICE’sChocolate Labin New York City.
However, looking for independent verifications, such asFairtradeCertified, theRainforest Allianceseal, USDA Certified Organic and Certified Vegan may help you choose chocolate sourced from ethically produced beans.
Fairtrade Certified
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Rainforest Alliance seal of approval
USDA Organic label
Chocolate products that bear theUSDA Organic sealensure that the chocolate products have gone through the organic certification process, where cocoa farmers need to follow strict production, handling and labeling standards.
Certified Vegan
Because there are no U.S. government regulations or guidelines for vegetarian or vegan labeling, companies may label their product as “100% Vegan” or “No Animal Ingredients” with no restrictions. However, some chocolate products may include honey, beeswax, lanolin, carmine, pearl or silk derivatives.
Some chocolate makers, though, may have the certified vegan logo displayed on their products. Independent agencies like theVegan Action/Vegan Awareness Foundationprovide vegan certifications using internationally recognized vegan standards and guidelines to evaluate the products. Receiving the seal of approval adds a layer of confidence and trust to a brand. Still, consumers may want to do their due diligence and read ingredient lists and the company’s standards to ensure that the brand is credible and trustworthy.
Potential drawbacks of certifications, seals and labels
Astudyfound that Fairtrade certification successfully increased the income of coffee producers and had benefited their local community. However, unskilled workers saw no increase in their wages. There were alsocasesof child labor found on cocoa plantations under the Fairtrade system.
With that in mind, Tim McCollum, CEO and founder ofBeyond Good, suggests, “Look beyond certifications. Understand the problems at a high level. Look for brands that are doing something different.”
Laiskonis agrees, “The more visibility a [chocolate] maker provides, from sourcing to manufacturing methods, the greater the promise of a more ethical and tasty transaction.”
Are there nutritional differences between ethical and conventional chocolate?
There are no differences between ethical and conventional chocolate from a nutrition standpoint. Cacao beans are naturally bitter, and chocolate producers may add sugar and milk to mask the bitterness of the beans. As a general rule of thumb, the higher the listed cocoa percentage, the lower the sugar content. Generally, milk chocolates are higher in sugar and less bitter-tasting than dark chocolates, which contain less sugar and taste more bitter.
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Chocolate made with plant-based milk alternatives, such as coconut, oat and nut additives, have become increasingly popular. These ingredients may offer sweeter and creamier textures than traditional dairy-based chocolates. Laiskonis advises, “Pay attention to the ingredient statement on chocolate packaging … dairy-free bars may be manufactured on shared equipment that also processes those containing milk products.”
Where can I buy ethical chocolate?
Due to the growing demand for ethical chocolate, you can now find them in your local grocery stores in addition to artisan markets and online. Food Empowerment Project has also come up with alistof dairy-free, vegan chocolate brands.
Bottom line: Should I buy ethical chocolate?
While your decision to purchase ethical or conventional chocolate is a personal choice, knowing where your favorite chocolate (and food in general) comes from makes you appreciate the farmers, the food system and the environment more, as well as reflect on the underlying socioeconomic issues.
“Understanding the journey of a cacao bean from farm to factory provides transparency, [making visible] the care and effort farmers put into growing their cacao,” says Troy Pearley, executive vice president and general manager, North America, ofDivine Chocolate.
Matt Cross, the co-founder ofHarvest Chocolate, adds, “Buying chocolate from makers who support farmers' prosperity is a good way to make a change.”
Laiskonis agrees, “Seeking out responsibly produced chocolate is the best way a consumer can effect change for farmers upstream in the supply chain.”
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