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Photo: Jenny Huang
The first—and only—time one of Yana Gilbuena’s guests asked for a fork and knife, it didn’t sit well with the chef. She had just given her spiel about the Filipino tradition of eating only with your hands to 80 pop-up diners eagerly awaiting the forthcoming feast at a church in Washington, D.C. But in the kitchen, news that a man was insisting on utensils put an abrupt halt to her meal preparations. She would go speak to him personally.In 2014, the Filipino-born Gilbuena made it her mission to spread the gospel of her native food—hosting kamayan-style pop-up feasts in all 50 states, plus the nation’s capital. Kamayan, or the act of eating with your hands, is the Filipino way of dining communally without plates or utensils. Instead, mounds of rice, sawsawan (dipping sauces), atchara (Filipino pickles) and multiple main dishes—from salads to grilled meats, veggies or fish—are spread across banana leaves on the table. “It was my way to challenge the constructs of Western definitions of dining,” Gilbuena says. “Kamayan decolonizes Filipino food: it embraces what we were made to feel ashamed of [eating with our hands], reclaims the heritage we were made to shun for Western ideals, and goes back to our roots.“For Gilbuena, who moved to the U.S. from the Philippines in 2004, cooking has always been about introducing as many people as possible to her culture. “Most of the time, when people feature Filipino food, it’s in these metropolitan cities: New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco,” she says. “Well, what about the folks in Kentucky? Or Maine? Do they have to travel to New York just to get a taste? I said, f–k it. I’ll just go bring it to them!”
The first—and only—time one of Yana Gilbuena’s guests asked for a fork and knife, it didn’t sit well with the chef. She had just given her spiel about the Filipino tradition of eating only with your hands to 80 pop-up diners eagerly awaiting the forthcoming feast at a church in Washington, D.C. But in the kitchen, news that a man was insisting on utensils put an abrupt halt to her meal preparations. She would go speak to him personally.
In 2014, the Filipino-born Gilbuena made it her mission to spread the gospel of her native food—hosting kamayan-style pop-up feasts in all 50 states, plus the nation’s capital. Kamayan, or the act of eating with your hands, is the Filipino way of dining communally without plates or utensils. Instead, mounds of rice, sawsawan (dipping sauces), atchara (Filipino pickles) and multiple main dishes—from salads to grilled meats, veggies or fish—are spread across banana leaves on the table. “It was my way to challenge the constructs of Western definitions of dining,” Gilbuena says. “Kamayan decolonizes Filipino food: it embraces what we were made to feel ashamed of [eating with our hands], reclaims the heritage we were made to shun for Western ideals, and goes back to our roots.”
For Gilbuena, who moved to the U.S. from the Philippines in 2004, cooking has always been about introducing as many people as possible to her culture. “Most of the time, when people feature Filipino food, it’s in these metropolitan cities: New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco,” she says. “Well, what about the folks in Kentucky? Or Maine? Do they have to travel to New York just to get a taste? I said, f–k it. I’ll just go bring it to them!”
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Chicken Inasal (Grilled Chicken)
Jenny Huang
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But she also considers her food to be an act of resistance and rebellion. When Spain colonized the Philippines in 1565, its influence settled over the islands like a ton of bricks. And although the country gained its independence in 1898, the rubble still remains today, evident in everything from the religion and culture to the food. So Gilbuena makes a point to serve dishes that are as precolonial or Indigenous-inspired as possible.
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Pinya Flan (Roasted Pineapple Flan)
Back to that D.C. pop-up. Gilbuena recalls telling the stubborn diner that he could eat with his hands—or he could leave and she’d refund his money. (He chose the former.) “It was funny because he was Filipino!” Gilbuena exclaims. “I was like, ‘Dude, that colonial mentality is buried in there really deep!'” When Gilbuena’s U.S. tour ended, she barely caught her breath before bringing her pop-ups to cities across Canada, then Colombia, Mexico, Australia and, most recently in 2019, to Europe. Her travels are on pause due to the COVID-19 pandemic, but the recipes included here will help you create a kamayan feast at home—no forks allowed.
How to Set Up a Kamayan-Style Meal
Key Ingredients to a Kamayan-Style Meal
Atsuete oil:Also called annatto or achiote oil, this red oil adds color and nutty flavor to recipes. To make your own, steep 2 Tbsp. annatto seeds in 1/4 cup hot canola or coconut oil for 30 minutes. Strain and discard the seeds.
Calamansi juice:A tart and floral relative of the kumquat, calamansi is the predominant citrus used in Filipino cooking. Look for the juice bottled or frozen. Lime or lemon juice can be substituted. (Try calamansi inBistek Tagalog).
Coconut cream:Thicker and richer than coconut milk, coconut cream is the solid part that rises to the top of canned coconut milk. It’s also sold separately. Skip anything labeled cream of coconut, which is sweetened and used to make things like cocktails.
Coconut vinegar:Made from the nectar of flowers from the coconut tree, this mild vinegar has a slightly sweet, coconutty aftertaste. It’s a staple throughout Southeast Asia and parts of India. Use it in marinades and dressings or to make pickled vegetables.
Fish sauce:This is the ultimate umami sauce. Gilbuena recommends seeking out one made with just anchovy, salt and water for the best flavor.
Ginisang bagoong:This fermented seafood paste, part of a family of Filipino secret-weapon condiments, gets its brown hue from sautéed garlic and onion. You can use fish sauce instead for a similar vibe.
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